Kaiser e-brake problems and solutions


The stainless steel brake and fuel line are complete with the components purchased from Summit Racing and the new flaring tool from the Eastwood Company. I had trouble with selecting the correct AN type hose ends and adaptors that go to the double flare line fittings so I sent for a Russell Catalogue that gave a good description and picture of each fitting. Once the correct adaptors I needed arrived the lines were quickly finished.
The remote fill brake lines for the master cylinder and the brake vacuum booster line will be installed when the body is back on the frame. The engine has been painted with the new intake manifold and pan installed.
The new torque converter did not fit the re-built AOD Transmission so I took them to LA last week to Tim Deal Transmission who found that a AODE instead of an AOD Torque converter had been supplied.


We visited the 1951 Ford 4-door while in LA to see the final paint work that is now being done. The flames look beautiful. Next the pin stripping and clear coat will be done. Hopefully, I will be able to take the engine, transmission, and all the other parts to LA around mid-April to put the car back together.


When I got back home the replacement torque converter arrived on Monday, it slipped right in the transmission and I put the engine together and installed the Hi-torque starter that is adjustable and can be rotated to achieve the best clearance to the headers, frame and other components. The engine was installed and measurements taken for the drive shaft. AZ DRIVELINE in Kingman Arizona built the new drive shaft in one day.




I put the body back on the completed frame only to discover the new fuel filter hit the bottom of the rear recessed floor pan so off it came to be relocated after more fittings are ordered.


Next the relocated e-brake hit the inner feder and had to be re-relocated with new mounts and the exit for the cable in a different location in the firewall. After moving the e-brake and handle I installed the new Lokar Cables to the rear brakes routing them under the frame and along the X-member and connected the old hand brake cable. It did not work as there is not enough leverage to pull the brake calipers. So I will take it apart and build a bell crank bar assembly similar to the stock Kaiser but in a different location.




I did receive the new B & M hammer shifter but not the Ford shifter cable, when it arrives I will tackle that job.


The car is coming along nicely, the wheels, suspension, engine and drive train clearances are good.


When all the obvious problems are fixed the rest of the body will be assembled to make sure it all fits and I can lay out and plan the radiator.



I selected the best of the three gauge clusters I have and set up a test bench to find a sending unit that would work with the original 6 volt gauge. Several water temp. senders were tried by setting them in a coffee can of water with a manual temp. gauge also in the can and then heated (with a propane torch) to 180 degrees. Tried the 12 volt senders connected original gauge with a battery charge used as a 6 volt or 12 volt power supply until the proper one was found.


The oil pressure was done using jury rigged manifold with an air regulator and a manual air pressure gauge connected. The sending unit was connected to the original gauge and three different senders tested, none worked so I connected different resistors in series with the sender that was the closest until the right combination was found to make the gauge work.

The gas gauge sender is from an early Ford that was recommended by one of the Kaiser Club Members and available form Dennis Carpenter Co.

Comments

Anonymous said…
Hi Ron,

I am trying to reach Rudy Philips, The numbers I have on him seem to be bad. If you have new contact info I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Jon Rubin jonru2@ca.rr.com

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