Monday, January 18, 2016

MUSTANG PROJECT CONTINUES

Next on the agenda was to strip the old paint off so the body filler and prime paint would have a good base. While stripping the old stuff off some old damage showed up on the passenger side on the door and rear panel behind the door where it looks like a minor side swipe and the drivers side front fender and door. Below the body has been striped.

 Above and below doors, fenders, trunk, rear valance and cowl are striped or sand blasted.

 This is the rust damage at the front and back of the drivers door.
 rust damage on the bottom corner of passenger door.
 Drivers door at outside door handle was split open.

 Bottom of front fender looked like it was rusted through but when cleaned it will be treated with rust preventive and body filler.
 Door patch being done.
 When the heater housing was removed I found it had been broken so a patch was made and pop rivet'ed in.
 Heater core leaked when it was tested and a new one ordered as it was cheaper than repairing the old one.
 Looking at the bottom of the car with the new control arms in place.
 A better picture of the new upper & lower control arms, ball joints and bushings.

 New steering box, master cylinder and booster.

Tuesday, December 22, 2015

HAPPY HOLIDAYS FROM RON

Wishing all who view my blog happy holidays

Another year has come and gone with lots of car stuff. Started with first place wins at the Grand National Roadster Show and then the Autorama, got a new project car (65 T-Bird) went to several car shows, sent the 60 Ford Starliner to Hot Rods by Dean for suspension, paint,center console & bucket seats and new upholstery that we will pick up in Phoenix after the holidays, then in October started a 2nd project with the 69 Mustang.

 The Mustang project continues with lots of scraping, cleaning and washing.
 The bottom of the car was scraped with almost all the under seal removed so all the rusty spots could be treated then pressure washed.
 After it was dry and blown off with a air hose it was wiped down with acetone then all the rust areas treated with Permatex Rust Treatment and sprayed with Rust-Oleum Undercoating.
 The larger parts were sand blasted outside including the fuel and brake lines the small parts cleaned in the blast cabinet.
 Blasted parts ready for paint.
 The front of the car was scraped then striped with the 3M rust & paint discs. The bare metal was treated with Metal Blast from Rust Bullet then wiped down with Acetone including the cowl and fresh air intake area in front of the windshield. Wheel wells were treated like the bottom of the car. You can see the blue tarps in the background that were hung around the car to make a spray both of sorts.
 All the edges around the new gas tank were primed the the tank installed as it will also be painted.
                             The finished bottom with undercoating and the painted gas tank.
                      Another shot of the bottom with the E-Break cables put back in place.
                                          The rear end and other parts with finished paint.
 I used Summit Racing Chassis Shield Semi Gloss paint for the front, firewall, rust treated areas and new metal inside the car and trunk.
 Painted parts.
 Finished firewall and engine compartment.
 This is the new power break booster (9" to replace the 7") and master cylinder with the new Borgeson power steering box below and the break lines re-installed.
 This is what the engine compartment looked like when I started.
 The rear end before sand blasting and paint.


 Here's a look at the Starliners new grills front and back.
More next time in 2016, have a happy new year.

Sunday, November 29, 2015

MUSTANG RUST REPAIR II

Once the back of the car was back together I made brackets for the rotisserie to bolt to the bumper bracket mounts and got it mounted. I turned it so I could work on the top first where there were 5 rust through holes.

 The entire top was striped to bear metal so all the rust damage could be treated
 There was glue still on the paint from the vinyl top that was on the car that had to be stripped off.

 Above and below are a couple of spots of the holes and rust ruts .
 I used a 3M paint & rust stripper disc for paint removal.

 Above all the holes are welded up and a rust treatment has been applied and below body filler has been applied. The top was then blocked sanded for a smooth finish.



 This is rust holes at the bottom left corner of the back window and top corner of the trunk and below is after the repair is done.

 This is before and after the right fender inner panel at the battery location has been replaced that includes a new battery tray assembly.

 The driver side rear floor pan was beyond repair and a new one was available so it was cut out and the area around it was cleaned up.

New floor pan installed.


 Behind the driver side seat mount platform the rust had worked its way up from the floor pan that needed to be fixed.


 Below the area shown above the floor pan had rusted through and hat to be repaired from the bottom side of the car.
 The area was cut out a pattern made then the piece made with the seat bolt access hole in it. While the hole was open a patch plate was welded in on the back side of the damaged seat platform.
 Damage repaired including a smaller patch to the right just above the rocker.
 The bottom corner of the windshield on the drivers side was rusted through that would have leaked water on the top of the instrument panel.
 I used a aluminum backing plate and was able to weld up the holes with out making a patch.
Hopefully all the rust damage is is now fixed and I can move on to scrape, clean and paint the bottom of the car and the engine compartment then rebuild the suspension.

With that done that only leaves every thing left to do.