Sunday, March 27, 2016


The Mustang was complete with all the sheet metal parts except the hood so it was ordered from  Dynacorn and it came in a very large box on a pallet and I had to go into town to pick it up at the truck dock.
 When the hood was installed I tried to close it and both hinges were rusted in the open position and the hood would not close even after soaking them with penetrating oil, they were removed and put in the vice and had to be hit with a hammer to get them to move. The right hinge came free but the left hinge broke one of the pins and will be replaced.  
 The door latches were installed so the doors and fender could be aligned at the body shop. The left front bumper support that had been straightened but hit the grill stone deflector as it was 2" higher than the right side so a new one was ordered.

 When the S.S. gutters at the roof were removed there was rust damage on the left side that had to be repaired, all the seam sealer was dug out to check the rest of the roof that was OK.

 The upholstery and all the interior parts were washed and scrubbed with dish soap and Clorox to get rid of the mildew and dirt from storage and I was surprised how well they cleaned up including the seat belts. The drivers seat has a couple of tears in the cushion but is usable, the rest of the parts are in pretty good shape.
 All the upholstery was treated with Armor All, door sills and rear side panels painted and carpet cleaned but not in very good condition.

 The cracks in the padded dash were filled and repaired with black silicone (one small hole in the top left corner of the photo) and the cracks around the speaker, then I bought a plastic grill to cover up the rest of the speaker area. Armor All made the rest of the dash look good.
My work on the Mustang project is done for right now and ready for the body and paint work to be done,
I will get the 65 Thunderbird out and get started in it again.

Saturday, March 12, 2016


Started the mustang for the first time yesterday and it sounds really good.

 The Borgenson power steering box and pump work 100% better than the stock ones. Headers fit with clearance around everything.
 New hoses, fan shroud and all the wiring is repaired. I should have added a heater control valve as the hot water flows through the heater core all the time but that is the way it was stock. The new distributor is larger then stock due to the coil in the cap and required a street ell at the heater hose connection as the stock one was too tall. Lokar throttle and kick down cables are used to fit the Edelbrock manifold and carburetor.
 The exhaust system started with a 2 1/2" pipe kit from Speedway Motors.
 I bought a pipe bender from Harbor Freight to bend the smaller kicks needed.
 The old shocks were installed and the rear end supported to make sure the proper of clearance.
 Muffler's are Summit Racing and the drive shaft with new U joints was installed.
 The straight section required offset and kicks at the headers.
 The 3 bolt flanges came with the Try-Y headers.
 The bends that came with the kit did not work for the bends over the axle and I had to modify the angle with pie cuts then weld them up.

All the exhaust was tack welded together then removed from the car welded up, welds were ground  to check for pinholes.  Then, the pipes were painted with high temperature paint and re- installed. 

 Home made mufflers support 
 I had 2 1/2" flanges in stock to fabricate the "H" pipe.
 The lower valance was temporally installed to get the tail pipes in the right location. 
 The new front calipers that were back ordered finally came and I was able to complete the brake system with my wife's help to pump the pedal for bleeding.
 A new aluminum 3 row radiator takes the place of the 2 row copper one.
I have contacted a local body shop to come and give me a estimate for body and paint work before I put any more of the car together.

Monday, March 7, 2016


The Spring Good Guys Scottsdale show held the first weekend in March, where we picked up the 1960 Starliner with new grills front & rear, new suspension and upholstery with T-Bird bucket seats & console.  

 The new upholstery is very comfortable with the stock back seat redone with a nice pattern and new bucket seats.

New hand made grills front and rear wit LED turn signals in the upper corners above the head lights.
 T-Bird center console with A/C vents and controls, cup holders and a new tach.

 The new SS side pipes above have the exhaust run through them full time by way of the original mufflers and new exhaust pipes.
Large verity of cars showed up as usual. A 30's Plymouth 4 door.
 The cowl vent on this rat rod caught my eye with "Obama Sucks"

 Blue with flames like our 51.
 How about a 1/2 of a car.

 An over the top rear engine Rat Rod.

 Very nice 30's Pontiac roadster.
 This hand formed car the "Aquarius" similar to a 1938 Delahaye was a big award winner that was also at the Sacramento Autorama & SEMA.

Saturday, February 20, 2016


The project is moving along with the rust, body and suspension problems almost complete. So it's time to get the car off the rotisserie.

 The rear end, springs and all their components have been sand blasted, cleaned and painted with all new seals in the rear end and all new brake parts. Springs received new performance polyurethane bushings. The new gas tank and sender are in place and wired.

 Engine bay is complete with wiring repaired and reconnected. New heater core and hoses, repaired wiper motor, parts and blower motor.
 The next 3 pictures are of the engine with all the new parts in place to make sure they all fit and that there were no problems.
 New Edelbrock performer intake manifold & carburetor, Summit Racing distributor with coil in the cap, Borgenson power steering pump and flex fan.
 Try-y headers, Cal Custom fined valve covers and air cleaner with Billet Specialties breathers, and 100 amp one wire alternator.
 The new stuff was taken off except the starter. The rebuilt transmission and torque converter painted and bolted to the engine.
 The engine is going in with the two cross members removed to allow the steep angle needed for the install.
 The engine was blocked up on a 2 X 4 and a floor jack so the hoist could be reset to level the motor.
 Set in place and ready for the rear transmission cross member and mount to be installed.

 All the new stuff was put back on, wires connected and new vacuum hoses run.
 The headers fit very good and cleared every thing.
 I cleaned the lower dash with a 3-M scouring pad then painted it with semi gloss paint and cleaned the steering wheel with armor-all. The dash knobs were cleaned and polished. When the heater  control cables were connected they had rusted inside and one broke so new ones will have to be ordered other than that all the components and steering column supports went back together pretty good.
Next I will tackle the brake system then the exhaust system.