Once the DIY gas petal was installed and the throttle cable I had a stock kick down cable from a Mustang that fit the throttle body but had to be adapted to the AOD transmission (rather than a C-4) so with a little mounting bracket & kick down lever modification it worked fine.
The inner finders and radiator U bracket were sand blasted and painted then installed with the radiator bolted in place I used left over chrome pipes to connect to the engine.
I bought new 3/8 steel tubing and fabricated the transmission to radiator cooling lines using a hand bender for the fit along side the oil pan.
Battery was moved back toward the fire wall to clear the power steering pump and hold down brackets made. I used battery cables that were left over from a previous project.
The starter solenoid , horn relay, barometric sensor and voltage regulator were mounted and wired. While checking out the wiring I discovered that the 1950 starter button went to ground (-) when pressed and the new starter solenoid needed (+) to operate it. I found a left over ignition switch (from a boat project) with a start position in it and wired the ignition circuit to make it work.
The power steering and rack & pinion hose inlet fittings were removed and taken to the auto supply house where they were able to match the fittings and make up custom hoses. The inner finder had to be cut away at the power steering pump to allow the hi pressure hose to be connected.
Engine & transmission oil were put in the radiator filled with water and power steering fluid and gas added then checked for leaks wear I found a water leak in the bottom tank of the radiator. Everything else checked out so I turned the key on and the new fuel pump ran and shut off with the pressure regulator then cranked the engine several times with no start or even try to fire.
After checking the timing, firing order, power to the coil and confirmed that the spark plugs did have spark I concluded there was no fuel. In order to check that the injectors were firing I purchased a NOID test light that plugged into the wiring harness plugs and the computer was firing the injectors.
Assuming the injectors were plugged up after setting for several years I went on line and found a website with detailed instructions on how to rebuild the injectors, purchased a rebuild kit on E-Bay and a can of injector cleaner then removed the intake Pentium, fuel rails and injectors.
The injectors were taken apart by removing the O-rings, caps and filter screen's then soaked in the injector cleaner for 24 hrs.
The instructions stated that you must make a switch to fire the injectors while blowing them out with air but did not tell my how to make it. I connected the NOID light a injector plug along with a digital volt meter and found that the computer put out 8.6 volts to fire the injectors then used a 9 volt battery and two jumpers to open the injectors while blowing them out.
After assembling the injectors they were installed & connected, the fuel rails & upper Pentium installed and the engine would still no start. I checked the fuel pump, lines & filter and in the process noticed that I had plumbed the fuel supply to the return fuel rail (backwards) so I had to re plumb the fuel lines at the gas tank and move the filter to make it work.
The engine would start but only run while the starter was engaged so I got out all the wiring diagrams & instructions and checked all the crank and run circuits. The Ford wiring harness instructions showed two wires that connect to crank only terminals so one at a time I connected them to run terminals and the second wire change made the engine start and run.
The radiator was removed and is still at the radiator shop awating a new bottom tank to arive.