I ordered a complete pre-wired set of gauges and received a do-it-yourself set. When I called the manufacturer, they said the box was mis-marked, and they would send the correct one and return this one. 7 days later I received the pre-wired and complete gauge set along with the senders. The advertisement and instructions said it was a direct fit and all I had to do was wire the 12-pin plug/pigtail into the painless wiring kit. Wiring the pigtail went good after all the wires were ID, as there were several spares or not used wires. Then when I tried to put the panel in place it would not set flush to the dash. The dash and steering column support metal interfered with the wiring and the back of the speedometer and tach. The wiring was moved and rearranged to clear, but the speedo & tach hold down brackets were too deep to clear the support. I cut the long machine bolts on the back of the speedo\tach but still had to bend the support to get it to set flush. The dash is now compl...

 I did not like the stance of the car, so I adjusted the front coil overs and lowered the front 3". Lowered stance not shown - I'll get a better picture. I put the car on skates and moved it to the car hoist, had to use a cable come-a-long as I did not have enough oomph in me to push it. With the car moved to the hoist the exhaust system was next on the agenda. Below are the parts that I had to work with, Muffler's (2), exhaust cut out system the is left over from another earlier project and 6 adapters that were purchased from Amazon. The mufflers that came with the car have 3" inlet & outlet, why the previous owner bought them is a mystery, so they required 3' to 2' adapters. The header flange required 2 1/2' to 2' adapters. The different components were mocked up under the car, spot welded then welded up on the pipe vice. with on side complete the same procedure was followed for the other side. The exhaust is lower than I would like it but the he...

  The new pan, oil pump & pickup arrived along with a dip stick and gasket set. The new and old oil pump are the same, but I used all the new parts. the front sump pan fit and cleared the steering link then the engine was put back in place. With the engine back in place I tried the new transmission cross member and mount that did not fit, It was too high and put the transmission up against the floor pan.  Whether it is the cross member or mount that was wrong I used what I had and altered it to fit. I cut out tabs from some steel plate and fitted them to the top of the cross member to lower it and the transmission. Above the tabs are welded in place. below is the finish cross member before it is painted. Once the engine and transmission were bolted in place and all the bolts torqued I could go ahead with the headers that also turned into a problem. The passenger side went fairly well once I figured out how to hold it up in place while bolting it to the block. They cleared ...

 Well, it's apart again after I screwed up. Finally got enough parts to put the engine/transmission together and ready for installation. The distributor came with the car but was apart with the cap hold down clips, missing. I robbed the clips from the 82- 302 I have and made my own brackets that are attached to the distributor, and got the wiring diagram for the Mallory from the internet. The 600 CFM Holley Unilite came with the car and the air cleaner is a 1970's Weiand that I had saved for 40 years. The engine was taken off the motor stand and a pair of travel stands put on. The new Seperator plate, fly wheel, pilot bearing, clutch & pressure plate installed. Then the bell housing, throwout arm & bearing and transmission. I used an adjustable engine sling so the engine could be tilted enough to get it in the car with the transmission on it. A set of after-market motor mounts came with the car that took time and modification to get them to fit but they worked out well....