The new pan, oil pump & pickup arrived along with a dip stick and gasket set. The new and old oil pump are the same, but I used all the new parts. the front sump pan fit and cleared the steering link then the engine was put back in place. With the engine back in place I tried the new transmission cross member and mount that did not fit, It was too high and put the transmission up against the floor pan.  Whether it is the cross member or mount that was wrong I used what I had and altered it to fit. I cut out tabs from some steel plate and fitted them to the top of the cross member to lower it and the transmission. Above the tabs are welded in place. below is the finish cross member before it is painted. Once the engine and transmission were bolted in place and all the bolts torqued I could go ahead with the headers that also turned into a problem. The passenger side went fairly well once I figured out how to hold it up in place while bolting it to the block. They cleared ...

 Well, it's apart again after I screwed up. Finally got enough parts to put the engine/transmission together and ready for installation. The distributor came with the car but was apart with the cap hold down clips, missing. I robbed the clips from the 82- 302 I have and made my own brackets that are attached to the distributor, and got the wiring diagram for the Mallory from the internet. The 600 CFM Holley Unilite came with the car and the air cleaner is a 1970's Weiand that I had saved for 40 years. The engine was taken off the motor stand and a pair of travel stands put on. The new Seperator plate, fly wheel, pilot bearing, clutch & pressure plate installed. Then the bell housing, throwout arm & bearing and transmission. I used an adjustable engine sling so the engine could be tilted enough to get it in the car with the transmission on it. A set of after-market motor mounts came with the car that took time and modification to get them to fit but they worked out well....

 Last post I was working on the brakes and had the new power unit & disc brakes installed. A new distribution \ proportioning block for disc front\disc rear (instead of disc\drum) had to be ordered. Once it arrived a new mounting bracket was fabricated and the block mounted.   New brake lines were made to tie the front and rear brakes to the block and complete the master brake cylinder. The brake system was bled using a hand vacuum pump. There were a few leaks that were fixed then I had to rebleed the system. The new trunk lid had been received a couple months ago that replaced the California Special deck lid and I decided to see how it fit.  I used the overhead hoist to hold it in place while it was bolted on. The new rear fender extensions were delivered, primed and installed. Taillight housings were rusted at the bottom and the gaskets in bad shape. After bead blasting the housing, they were painted, new gaskets ordered, all the chrome polished then the back of the...

 I got quite a bit done since the last post, so I'll start with that. The cowl was stripped of the heavy primer and the 3 other coats of paint using Strip It Discs on the angle grinder to bare metal (below) then reprimed using a raddle can (above). The rear end has been put back together with new seals and gaskets. While buying new gaskets I found that it is a 8" not 9" as originally assumed. The disc brakes that came with the rear end was bolted on. There was some missing hardware that I found in my left-over stash of nuts, bolts & hardware. There were no instructions, so I went online with the part number stamped on the bracket and found it is a Summit Racing rear disc brake kit for 8- or 9-inch Fords. The car will be lowered and debated with myself weather to go 2 o3 inches and decided to start with 3" Lowering blocks will be used in the back so i made my own using scrap material . Using the 3" rectangle tubing and 1/8" plate I welded up the lowering...