When I ordered the transmission mount the kick panels, window cranks and battery hold down were also ordered to finish the interior trim and the upcoming new battery. Next on the agenda was to finish the exhaust system and a 2" exhaust pipe kit and flanges were bought. The cut out shown has been pie cut and re-welded to raise it a couple of inches. The re-worked cut out assemble. I had to remove the mufflers that came with the car as they were just too long to fit in the space in front of the rear axle. A pair of 18" Tubo mufflers took their place that fit in the space under the rear seat floor pan. The 40" straight pipes were tack welded to in place alongside the drive shaft. Then to make sure that the cut outs did not hit the floor they got bolted in place. Next the mufflers were fitted in place, new supports fabricated, and the flanges welded on. Fitting the tail pipes was done by using a combination of the 90, 45 and straight pipes from the kit. the 45 bends had to ...

 Last post the transmission would not shift into any gear except 3rd & 4th gear and I decided to take it out to see what is wrong. The drive shaft, exhaust pipes and e-brake cable were removed to make it easier for me to drop the transmission. The 5 pictures below came in reversed where #5 should be the one below, so bear with me and I will explain what had to be done. This one shows the floor jack on the rolling steel tool cart with an adapter and extension pipe to reach the transmission, rachet straps were used to hold up the trans. while the pipe extension was changed for shorter ones this was done twice to get it down to top of cart. This is the rebuild kit for my 1978 Sears floor jack with the exploded view of the pump assembly. Jack with tolls and parts before rebuilding. Disassembled jack parts. The reason the jack is being rebuilt is it would not stay in the jacked-up position (worn out pump parts) and I do not have enough muscle any more to safely lift the transmission...

 To get the car running it needed a fuel pump as the front cover on the engine did not have a opening for a mechanical pump (it is a fuel injected block with a in-tank pump). I have converted it to a carburetor that requires a low-pressure pump. I bought a Carter electric pump as I have had good luck with them on past projects. Next expensive item was a drive shaft that cost $350.00 from South West Speed Driveline in Arkansas. The driveshaft was painted before it was installed. It came with a transmission slip yoke that did not fit the T5 and I had to order a different one to fit the u-joint and transmission. I did not read all the information that's on their website and could have avoided the extra cost but that's what happens when you assume you know what your doing. When I tried to start the engine, it would not start using the key and did start using a handheld start switch on the starter solenoid, so I started tracing wires and found some misconnected wires from the wiring...

 I ordered a complete pre-wired set of gauges and received a do-it-yourself set. When I called the manufacturer, they said the box was mis-marked, and they would send the correct one and return this one. 7 days later I received the pre-wired and complete gauge set along with the senders. The advertisement and instructions said it was a direct fit and all I had to do was wire the 12-pin plug/pigtail into the painless wiring kit. Wiring the pigtail went good after all the wires were ID, as there were several spares or not used wires. Then when I tried to put the panel in place it would not set flush to the dash. The dash and steering column support metal interfered with the wiring and the back of the speedometer and tach. The wiring was moved and rearranged to clear, but the speedo & tach hold down brackets were too deep to clear the support. I cut the long machine bolts on the back of the speedo\tach but still had to bend the support to get it to set flush. The dash is now compl...