I got quite a bit done since the last post, so I'll start with that. The cowl was stripped of the heavy primer and the 3 other coats of paint using Strip It Discs on the angle grinder to bare metal (below) then reprimed using a raddle can (above). The rear end has been put back together with new seals and gaskets. While buying new gaskets I found that it is a 8" not 9" as originally assumed. The disc brakes that came with the rear end was bolted on. There was some missing hardware that I found in my left-over stash of nuts, bolts & hardware. There were no instructions, so I went online with the part number stamped on the bracket and found it is a Summit Racing rear disc brake kit for 8- or 9-inch Fords. The car will be lowered and debated with myself weather to go 2 o3 inches and decided to start with 3" Lowering blocks will be used in the back so i made my own using scrap material . Using the 3" rectangle tubing and 1/8" plate I welded up the lowering...

 Last post covered the damaged core support and front aprons. New ones were bought (shown below). The passenger side apron or battery apron was a good fit but needed to be pulled into the engine space a little. Holes were drilled where I wanted to spot weld then clamped into place. Driver's side needed more work as the spot weld holes needed to be drilled and the holes and slots for the fender bolts had to be laid out and cut into the top lip. I used spray through spray (3 M product} on the bare metal before welding the aprons in place. Once the aprons were in place I used a tape measure to check if they were equal distance from center and in height from the floor. They were not in alignment. To correct the alignment problem the core support was bolted and clamped in place the fenders set and bolted at the cowl. Then I used rachet straps to pull the aprons into place, so the bolt lined up and the measurements were correct. With the core support held in place the fenders were remove...

 The project car was originally a 289 V8 with automatic transmission, no power brakes or steering. When finished it will be manual 5 speed transmission, 302 V8, power brakes and steering. I'll get to the adding a clutch after an update on clean, paint & repair. Above is the passenger side rear fender well ready for underseal & no repair needed. The driver side rear fender well had been cut back for the rear quarter panel replacement and will be seam sealed before under seal. This is the inside of rear fender showing the weld for the replacement quarter panel, cleaned & ready for paint. Bottom of the car cleaned and undersealed. Glad that part is done. The radiator support was badly bent where the hood latch is attached, and I decided to replace it. this one is the second one replacement as part of the original was still there and it was braised in place not welded. I tried heat to melt the braise without much luck and ended up using a grinder and cut off disc. This is t...

 The car is still on the rotisserie getting the grease, oil, under seal & old paint cleaned off. I have a couple more passes to be made before it ready for paint. I can only scrub on the bottom for an hour each time and clean and repair other parts for the rest of my workday. Took the heater out and apart to be repaired as extra parts for it came with the car, new heater core behind the old one. The box is fiberglass, but the internal parts and doors are rusty steel. The packages in the background are new gaskets and seals that came as spare parts. The emergency brake unit, cable and parts were bead blasted and painted. The handle was broken off and will be replaced. All the metal parts of the heater were bead blasted, painted then put back together using the new core and gaskets. The rear fender apron was rusted through and needed repair. With the rusted part cut out a new panel was made. New panel welded in place ready for a coat of paint. Leaf springs and fuel line were sand...