I moved the car from the hoist to the center bay where the overhead electric hoist is to handle the hood install and to try to set the front wheel alignment. Below is the caster/camber tool I got at Amazon and got the camber set pretty close using the excentric adjustment on the lower control arm. I fabricated a top-in tool from some left-over metal framing material, from a picture I saw on Facebook, that bolts to the front wheel hubs. Slots were cut at the bottom ends to hold the tape measures and adjustment made by turning the sleeves on the steering arms. The front of the wheel is 1/16 closer than the back measurement. A string line was strung from back to front with the string touching the back and front of the rear tire, steering wheel was set to center then measurements taken from string line to front jig to set the front wheels parallel to the back. A new hood, without turn signal or hold-down pins, was ordered from CJ Pony Parts that I called and put on customer pick-up as...

 When I ordered the transmission mount the kick panels, window cranks and battery hold down were also ordered to finish the interior trim and the upcoming new battery. Next on the agenda was to finish the exhaust system and a 2" exhaust pipe kit and flanges were bought. The cut out shown has been pie cut and re-welded to raise it a couple of inches. The re-worked cut out assemble. I had to remove the mufflers that came with the car as they were just too long to fit in the space in front of the rear axle. A pair of 18" Tubo mufflers took their place that fit in the space under the rear seat floor pan. The 40" straight pipes were tack welded to in place alongside the drive shaft. Then to make sure that the cut outs did not hit the floor they got bolted in place. Next the mufflers were fitted in place, new supports fabricated, and the flanges welded on. Fitting the tail pipes was done by using a combination of the 90, 45 and straight pipes from the kit. the 45 bends had to ...

 Last post the transmission would not shift into any gear except 3rd & 4th gear and I decided to take it out to see what is wrong. The drive shaft, exhaust pipes and e-brake cable were removed to make it easier for me to drop the transmission. The 5 pictures below came in reversed where #5 should be the one below, so bear with me and I will explain what had to be done. This one shows the floor jack on the rolling steel tool cart with an adapter and extension pipe to reach the transmission, rachet straps were used to hold up the trans. while the pipe extension was changed for shorter ones this was done twice to get it down to top of cart. This is the rebuild kit for my 1978 Sears floor jack with the exploded view of the pump assembly. Jack with tolls and parts before rebuilding. Disassembled jack parts. The reason the jack is being rebuilt is it would not stay in the jacked-up position (worn out pump parts) and I do not have enough muscle any more to safely lift the transmission...

 To get the car running it needed a fuel pump as the front cover on the engine did not have a opening for a mechanical pump (it is a fuel injected block with a in-tank pump). I have converted it to a carburetor that requires a low-pressure pump. I bought a Carter electric pump as I have had good luck with them on past projects. Next expensive item was a drive shaft that cost $350.00 from South West Speed Driveline in Arkansas. The driveshaft was painted before it was installed. It came with a transmission slip yoke that did not fit the T5 and I had to order a different one to fit the u-joint and transmission. I did not read all the information that's on their website and could have avoided the extra cost but that's what happens when you assume you know what your doing. When I tried to start the engine, it would not start using the key and did start using a handheld start switch on the starter solenoid, so I started tracing wires and found some misconnected wires from the wiring...